Friday, December 9, 2011

Parting Thoughts

A few more observations before leaving Ghanaian soil once again -
Traditional Ghanaian attire easily mixes in with western fashion, but it is the fit of the Ghanaian woman's dress that stands out for me. She seems to be literally "poured" into her outfit, accentuating every curve. I also enjoy seeing a particular group of people wearing the exact same fabric in varied styles of design: long, short, scoop neck, v-neck, cap sleeves, puffed sleeves, tailored suit, floor-length dress.
While the official language of the country is English, the ability of many Ghanaians to fluently speak several foreign languages is truly impressive. Granted, the less educated speak mainly in their own tribal tongue although even they can understand and make themselves understood in a neighboring tribal language as well. The more educated Ghanaians, however, often travel and supplement their studies outside of the country. This is certainly true of many Ghanaian physicians, some of whom begin university and subsequent medical training abroad when they have just completed secondary school. Several years are spent in Russia, Germany, Cuba or China, first learning the foreign language in an intensified, immersion program. Others complete their basic and specialized studies at one of the four medical schools in Ghana, then often participate in a post-graduate curriculum elsewhere. One resulting frustration is after being exposed to state-of-the-art instruments and technology abroad, one returns to the medical facilities in Ghana where this sorely needed equipment is generally not available.
Patience is a required virtue in this country; change and progress can take a long time. By the same token, Ghanaian attributes are in abundance. Her people are peace-loving, friendly and generous - always ready to say "Welcome!" "Akwaaba" here in Accra or as we say in the North, "Amaraba!"

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Activity in Accra

Jim teaches at the School of Medicine and Health Sciences at the University for Development Studies (UDS) in Tamale, so we decided to reserve a room at the new UDS Guest House in Accra for the week. We are here for the annual meeting of the Ghana College of Physicians and Surgeons into which Jim is to be formally inducted (complete with distinguished cap & gown!) as a Fellow at tomorrow's ceremony. While he attends the conference lectures during the day, I enjoy a bit of relaxation at the guest house or peruse the various shops and restaurants on Oxford St. in the Osu section of the city.
This past Sunday afternoon, we were very fortunate to find a performance scheduled at the National Theater, an impressive building constructed by the Republic of China. It was a play called "The Day Dad Came" and was truly a special experience. Basically, the play was a comedy interspersed with occasional songs, that explored the issue of abusive love relationships in a modern setting. It was long (seven or eight acts)! It was sometimes corny. It had one scene in which an old woman turned into an angel surrounded by a cloud of mist. It had religious references, sexual references, and it was most definitely "Ghanaian" in its cultural context. The audience loved it, cheering loudly and laughing throughout the close to three-hour show. Popcorn and free drinks were distributed as we entered. The theater was packed - babies and all - and the periodic crying out of the little ones was nonchalantly tolerated by both actors and spectators. The taking of bows was an absolute delight with each actor performing his or her own style of dance gyration to the music being played along with the shouts and waving of arms in the audience. Finally, the theater manager invited everyone to proceed to the lobby in order to chat with the cast members and have photos taken with them. Unbelievably, the show we saw began at 4 PM with another performance scheduled for 8!

Monday, December 5, 2011

Leaving Tamale, Flying South to Accra

Every stay in Tamale brings unique experiences and this time was no exception. Met interesting, new friends and discovered a couple of tasty restaurants. Of course, there is always something to learn - such as ordering one's food well in advance to cut down the fairly standard two to three hour wait at places like "Mariam," "Samnandzo," or "Luxury." And after less than impressive desserts created by yours truly in the microwave, success was finally achieved by making a delicious pineapple upside-down cake in a covered skillet on the stove!
As we leave the Northern Region via Antrak Airline to spend a week in Accra, I will not miss walking through the dusty fog of the Harmattan wind (and trying to wipe it clean from our furniture and floors), or squeezing into a crowded taxi to town weaving in and out of near-misses with other vehicles, bike riders and pedestrians. Certain images, however, cause me to smile - seeing Jim carefully carrying a black plastic bag containing thirty loose eggs which he picked up in the market after work, and a young girl balancing an actual pyramid of loose eggs perched on a large, round tray atop her head.