Ghana Photos 2009

Ghana's Beauty Queen, arriving with us at Tamale Airport

Admiring our plants

Surrounding area

With the girls at Gidipass

Downtown Tamale

COLWOD women at work

Furniture shopping, al fresco

Women I taught, from Rwanda & Burkina Faso

One of many road accidents

Snack time

Bon Appétit

Jim with one of his nurses

Colorful choir, in song at Mass

Church grounds, after Mass

Walking on the road

Getting together at SWAD

Photo-op

Preparing supper

Ghanaian cuisine

Jim with Godwin, our cook

Jim's home office

Our living room

Abdulai Mumuni, our reliable night watchman

Home Sweet Home

Thanks for visiting my blog. Until next time...

Departure on the Horizon

In a few short days, I will be leaving West Africa again - taking with me some favorite reflections:
- taxis weaving in and out of bicycles, motorbikes, cows and goats,
- Ghanaian women in beautifully fitted dresses of various designs parading up to the two large collection baskets in church, dancing and clapping along with the music,
- groups of children walking on the road, dressed in uniforms of different colors according to their paticular school,
- mothers balancing all sorts of products on their heads with babies securely wrapped against their backs,
- well-behaved youngsters seated in the first couple of rows at Mass, imitating the singing (and swaying!) of the full-bodied choirs (usually three different groups),
- our Tamale home, complete with thriving plants and mango trees, tucked in between two neighboring houses, and just a short walk out to the main road which leads into town,
- images of Jim: examining a patient in the clinic, performing surgery in the OR, climbing into a taxi and immediately practicing his local language skills with the driver and other occupants, complaining to Godwin about cooking too many beans too many times, conversing and laughing with Abdulai Mumuni in Dagbani like they are old friends, sitting at his computer researching a medical topic or hoping to make a Skype connection with our kids in the US.
Look for Ghana 2009 photos to be posted in the near future and thanks for reading!

Teaching/Tutoring

In addition to Jim's work in the Ear, Nose and Throat clinic at the hospital, he has been lecturing two mornings a week at the School of Medicine and Health Sciences, one of four medical schools in Ghana. The other three are located in Accra, Kumasi and Cape Coast, the school here in Tamale being the only one in the Northern Region. Unfortunately, once students in both the medical and nursing programs graduate, the majority choose to work in the south, leaving this area very much in need of healthcare workers.
As for me, I have enjoyed teaching English to the young French-speaking missionary sisters and as often happens, an instructor can learn just as much from her students - in my case, cultural information about Rwanda and Burkina Faso as well as other African countires in which they have lived and worked. Have also been tutoring the Archbishop Emeritus in computer skills now that he is retired and no longer has a secretary typing letters and sending his correspondence. My own kids would laugh at this saying it must be "the blind leading the blind" but I guess I can at least impart a few of the basics. And so, these morning teaching sessions, along with a little French to English textbook translation have helped to keep me fairly busy.
Tonight, we have a dinner invitation from the Sisters of Our Lady of Africa and tomorrow will be the beginning of my last week in Tamale for a while.

Some Observations

Just as the head of a family is expected to take care of those in his household, employees paid by the Ghana government (for example, at the hospital) expect the same of their "head." However, as a result, many workers (certainly not all) with this mind-set often demand to be reimbursed for every little thing beyond the bare minimum of their "job description" - such as transportation, food, uniforms, cell phone credits, and of course any over-time hours. At the same time, those often "in charge" seem to be extemely lenient if an employee arrives late, leaves early, or simply fails to appear at an assigned location.
On the other side of the picture, employees at the hospital are sometimes not paid for weeks and even months at a time due to a financial glitch originating in Accra. Others work in temporary positions for long peroids, occasionally years, with no pay, just hoping that they will eventually be placed on an official roster.
The red-tape of bureaucracy is further seen in the frustrating amount of time it takes for certain things to get done. One example is the new intensive care unit created in the hospital here in Tamale well over two years ago when a good deal of face-lifting took place in the country with Ghana hosting the African Soccer Cup. The unit is still waiting for the necessary permit which would authorize it to be fully utilized - something about the contractors not yet being paid for their work and not enough trained nursing staff.
And yet, there are those three separate instances yesterday when a Ghanaian saw me trudging along with my packages and literally ran over to ask if she could carry them for me. Not a polite, ambitious youngster eager to pick up a few pesewas, but a teenaged school girl and two middle-aged women. As I was beginning to think I must be looking pretty old and seemingly in need of obvious assistance, my friend Hubertine reassured me that it was simply customary Ghanaian courtesy to receive such expressions of kindness. I decided to believe her.

Local Happenings

Two impressive British members of the core team to rebuild Tamale Teaching Hospital treated Jim and me to dinner at SWAD last week. The young man is a civil engineer and the young woman is a project manager, both committed to a stay of three years here. The possibility of the hospital renovation/rebuilding was questionable until just recently when the Dutch government agreed to "gift" a substantial portion of the cost to Ghana. The plan is to construct a brand new facility alongside the existing one. The old hospital will continue to be used during construction and when the new hospital is completed, the entire medical staff will work there while the old building is gutted and refurbished, eventually providing space for administrative offices, a cafeteria, additional wards, etc. A modern, well constructed hospital will be such a welcome sight, especially if the budget will allow the much needed medical equipment which is presently lacking. Now if only crucial medications and miscellaneous other supplies could follow....
On another note, I forgot to relate one of Jim's previous amusing experiences when the Islam period of fasting finished a few days ago. Last year at this time, it seemed Jim went out to answer the doorbell which is on the exterior of the wall surrounding our property. When he unlocked and opened the metal entrance gate, he encountered two young men carrying rather large and apparently sharp-looking knives. The flash of concern that crossed Jim's mind was quickly diffused when they asked if he needed some assistance in killing his goat for the ritual meal commemorating the end of Ramadan.

People come and go....

Just when I was getting a better handle on cooking here (either googling whatever ingredients I happened to have on hand and having a recipe magically pop up on the computer screen or simply by adlibbing with a touch of this 'n that), Godwin made a return appearance.
Will miss my friend, Mmathuba, when she soon leaves for a month's vacation to her home country of Botswana. She and I had one of our enjoyable afternoons yesterday, - first doing some marketing in town and then relaxing back at her place discussing all sorts of topics covering our children, husbands, our own parents, and her growing up as the youngest child of the chief of their village/district. We never lack for conversation and laugh easily - even when commiserating about some aspects of our life in Tamale.

more about life in Tamale....

The thirty-day fast for Ramadan ended over the weekend with thousands of Muslims filling the streets of Tamale on their way to celebrate. Alhaji Sulemana (our landlord) came over to the house to greet us as well. It was also the 100th birthday of the first Ghanaian president, Kwame Nkrumah (who died in 1972), so Monday was a national holiday.
Stopped at COLWOD yesterday to find the young women hard at work as they continue to create a variety of beautiful articles - dresses, shirts, tablecloths, napkins, aprons, headbands, handbags, etc., etc. A myriad of color and design is reflected in the fabrics, sometimes making it difficult to select one over another.
Electricity went off three times last night but only for a few minutes a clip. Water, however, is much more plentiful this year although still not fit to drink.
Looks like I'll have to do my share of marketing tomorrow - more than just picking up the usual items I get when in town. Godwin has been AWOL for a few days and the kitchen has become my sole domain. Will rely on an old Jersey stand-by meal tonight - pasta with garlic & oil accompanied by a can of "back-up" baked beans that I spotted on one of the local food mart shelves the other day. Should be able to doctor those up with a little onion and herbs.

Dinner Party in Tamale

Had dinner for seven here last evening with Rick, Mmathuba, Kris, Paul and Allie plus their two little ones, Hannah and Levi joining Jim and me. Godwin prepared a large dish of pasta with a vegetable cream sauce and a platter of boiled plantain accompanied by palava sauce (spinach-like greens and beans with a bit of a tomato base). I made a sliced potato-zucchini-tomato casserole along with a cucumber/avocado salad. We should have stopped there.
Hearing that the Catholic Guest House prepared nice roasted guinea fowl (a little too tough for me but a relatively popular item in Tamale), I asked Godwin to ride over and pick up a couple of them for a side dish. Relating that they were out of guinea fowl, he returned with two of the scrawniest looking roasted chickens I've ever seen - tasting quite the opposite of succulent to say the very least.
Fortunately, there was plenty of other food on the table followed by Godwin's delicious banana cake - the best and lightest of any cake he has baked before. We attributed the greatly improved end-result to the new hand mixer recently purchased in town and the one thing I did manage to pack in my suitcase before leaving the US - Davis' double acting baking powder.

Long Days, Late Nights at the Hospital

Jim had a couple of late nights at the hospital this past week with emergencies involving children and the necessity of performing tracheostomies. Left the house at 7:30 AM Thursday and didn't return until 1:00 AM Friday.
Due to a heavy rain on Monday, the wall of a house in which a three-year old boy lives fell down on top of him. Then Thursday, a twelve-year old girl was brought in with a crushed larynx. She had been working next to some type of industrial belt which snapped and forcefully hit her in the neck.
So, while Abdulai Mumuni kept watch outside as I slept peacefully, Jim was doing his best to give two youngsters another chance at life.

Being More Productive

Yea! I have a couple of jobs which definitely provide my days with a bit more structure. Am tutoring two French-speaking missionary sisters (one from Rwanda and another from Burkina Faso) in English in order to prepare them for a bilingual examination they will take in Rome and have agreed to help translate a textbook from French into English which will be used in religious education classes here in Ghana.
Am also beginning to feel a little more comfortable in my Ghanaian kitchen. Not quite like cooking in Kearny, NJ but certainly proving possible to prepare something edible for dinner.

Miscellaneous Info

Godwin has another calling besides that of a cook. He can accurately predict when it will rain and advises me accordingly as to when I can leave my little fold-up umbrella at home.
So far, so good, with my potential dental problem. Hours before leaving the US, I was informed that a certain tooth was prone to infection and needed to be extracted. Armed with a couple of rounds of antibiotics and instructions to rinse with salt and warm water if necessary, I'm hoping at all cost to avoid having anything pulled here. Am not the least bit anxious to experience the dental clinic at the hospital.
New York City tee-shirts are definitely among the gifts of choice in Tamale. Jim and I brought over a colorful assortment depicting the Manhattan skyline and distributed them to various people at the hospital, COLWOD, and here at the house. Big hit with everyone!

Ongoing Taxi Saga

Was thrilled to climb into a decent looking taxi the other day. It had a crack-free windshield and actual door and window handles. The trade-off, however, was a harrowing ride into town. As the other two passengers seemed oblivious, I was holding on for dear life as the driver insisted on speeding at every chance he got, coming up to each car in front of him within inches, beeping his horn, passing with oncoming traffic in view, and weaving in between motorcycles, cows and whatever else was in his path. Think I may opt for those dilapidated vehicles that chug along at a much slower pace.

Times Are Changing

A new Archbishop has been appointed in Tamale with our good friend, Archbishop Gregory, now retired. Parties to celebrate Gregory's long tenure are still taking place - one was on Tuesday evening (mainly for the members of the religious community and a few strays like us) with a Mass followed by a reception of drinks and an extensive buffet dinner. Another is to be held this Saturday - a day-long gala open to all the people of the entire diocese. Am sure there will be plenty of music and dancing.
COLWOD (Collaboration With Women in Distress) also has a new director as the unique Sr. Jacqueline has been re-assigned to Kenya. The young women working at Colwod are understandably anxious and wary of the change. I treated four of them to lunch on Monday and amid the usual joking and laughs, was discussion of their future.
Other good friends have moved on to different ventures. Damien, who stayed with us over the weekend, is presently working with banana cultivation in the south instead of with the mango project here in the north. Hubertine has left for a while to visit family in Togo. The Cosways are back in Canada although Nancy expects to be with us for a few days in the fall on her way back from a business trip to Nigeria.
Happily, Mmathuba and Rick are still here. Sr. Elizabeth, of the Sisters of Our Lady of Africa, has returned from Germany to help out after the tragic death from typhoid of fellow Sr. Veronique. There is a new group of novitiates at the Christian Brothers. Godwin, cook and keeper of the house, and Mumuni, the night watchman, remain loyal to our Tamale household.

2009 Rainy Season

This year's rainy season and that of 2008 - approximately May to October - have supposedly been the heaviest in Ghana for some 90 years. And presently, the French-speaking country just north of us - Burkina Faso - is dealing with much flooding. It is said the amount of rain that fell in their capital city of Quagadougou in one day the past week was equal to a quarter of the whole country's annual rainfall. As a result, if Burkino is forced to open the main gate of a hydroelectric dam in the Volta River basin near the Ghanaian border, this could have serious repercussions for Ghana especially if the torrential-like rains continue.
Right now, we are not adversely affected here in Tamale except for muddy roads and the extra danger of more mosquitos. The sun shines in between the downpours and life goes on. I keep hearing about the "cuisine fantastique" that can be found in "Quaga" but I guess a visit up there will be put on hold for a while.

Re-stocking The Cupboard

Have been getting some food and miscellaneous kitchen supplies for the house while writing a reminder to myself in big, red, block letters to follow my own intuition in the future re: items to bring from the US or even while stopping over in Accra. Jim is always quick to say "you can find anything in Tamale, - no need to pack extra weight in our suitcases." A big jar of Skippy or Jif peanut butter would've been nice. A hand-held electric mixer (which could easily be used with a local plug/voltage adaptor). A few favorite spices, etc., etc. No doubt that some shape or form of the above can be found here but quality and cost are a different matter.
On the other hand, open air markets and roadside stands for fruit and vegetables are plentiful with the produce fresh and delicious. Preparation of meals is what takes a fair amount of time - necessity of boiling the water, for example.
In any event, we certainly don't go hungry. Unless, of course, we join our Muslim friends in this current period of fasting during the 30 days of Ramadan. No food or drink all day between sunrise and sunset.

Daily Life

With the many frustrations and difficulties he faces every day in the hospital and even in maintaining the house, Jim thrives on his work. Without question, he is making a difference in the lives of people around him. Me, - not so much. I feel I should be doing more and then rationalize that I'm not here long enough during one stay to commit to a full-time position. Lame excuse because I can always get involved in one thing or another. Some days I do get a little sense of accomplishment in just taking care of mundane chores like food shopping, going to the bank for a new ATM card, or picking up a package at the post office.
The bank, for example, was total bedlam on Monday with at least 100 people milling inside and another 50 on line outside by the ATM "waiting for it to be repaired." Determined to succeed, I was able to find the bank manager, and after interacting with him and a series of his assistants, I departed with both cash in hand and a current ATM card (which should eventually be able to work).
The post office was my next stop. We received a notice in our box to pick up a package which turned out to be Beth's Father's Day gift. It had arrived shortly before Jim left for his stateside visit so he never got a chance to retrieve it before his departure. While one clerk in the main building watched over my two large bundles of shopping, I was directed to another location across the back courtyard, filled out a few forms for two other clerks chatting among themselves and other customers, watched them open and inspect the contents of the box, paid 3 Ghana cedi (about $2.25) for the paperwork, and finally left with a beautiful laptop carrying case filled with an assortment of US magazines and lots of good wishes.

New Adventures Ahead

Hope to add yet another positive experience to life in Tamale. My first sojourn in Ghana was total novelty, the second was getting accustomed to our own home, and this third.....remains to be seen.
One of our sons once introduced us to a game of "Highs and Lows" and I thought of that in my first few days back. "Lows" included a dust-covered house, a multitude of cobwebs, and electrical problems affecting refrigerator, computer, and lights. The "Highs," however, won out with the house still standing, beautiful plants surviving, being met at the airport by one of Jim's colleagues, and having a home-cooked breakfast prepared by Kris, the son of a good college friend who recently accepted a job in Tamale with Catholic Relief Services and who just happens to live a short walk from our place. Last but not least were the warm greetings of both strangers and friends.
The house is now cleaned, a knowledgeable electrician has put us back on track, and Jim was enthusiastically welcomed time and again by people on the street and his co-workers in the hospital.

2009 Return to Ghana

Back to West Africa 28 August 2009, returning with Jim after his visit home to the States. Stayed once again at the convenient and comfortable Transit Lodge in the Cantonments section of Accra, only about a ten minute drive from the airport, and enjoyed a favorite dinner of cassava fish with lobster sauce just around the corner at Captain Hook's.
The next morning we boarded our Antrak domestic flight to Tamale and were accompanied by the reigning beauty queen adorned with a golden crown and a "Ghana's Most Beautiful" sash draped over her colorful blue and pink print dress. I feel fairly certain in assuming that the photographers waiting upon our arrival were not assembled to welcome Jim back to Tamale Teaching Hospital.