My nearly four-month stay in Ghana will soon be coming to a close as I fly from Tamale to Accra on Nov. 2. Jim plans to accompany me to Accra where we'll spend the week-end before my flight to the U.S. via Amsterdam which departs the evening of Nov. 5.
As one might imagine, it's with mixed feelings that I leave. While I greatly look forward to being with family and friends, it will be difficult saying "au revoir" to Jim. Future plans are always uncertain but I hope to return to Ghana late in the spring. Meanwhile, our daughter, Beth, will be the first family member to visit the Murphy home in Tamale. She and her Dad will celebrate Christmas together while I join the contingent in the States.
And so, as I say my farewells, I'm deeply appreciative to have been exposed to many new experiences and at the same time realize I have so much more to learn. Africa is a huge continent with its countries very diverse. Ghana, and most importantly the people I've met here, have been my personal and unforgettable introduction to this unique part of our world.
Wednesday, October 24, 2007
Monday, October 22, 2007
Nurturing Contacts
Last week, a long overdue clinical conference for doctors took place in the hospital thanks to Jim's "behind the scenes" approach to initiate it. Unbelievably, the doctors had rarely met among themselves. Rapport was not good, legitimate complaints were usually ignored, and some colleagues were not even aware of the existence of others. Jim went to each physician in the hospital and telephoned four or five additional ones who work in Tamale but outside the facility to encourage their getting together. He asked two Ghanaian doctors to preside over the meeting and to Jim's delight, they had a great turn-out of eighteen physicians and a resolution to hold subsequent conferences every two weeks. So, although serious problems continue, this event was truly an accomplishment.
Our social contacts are also increasing. The Archbishop has a friend who offered to cook a special meal for us the other evening. She is a Ghanaian now married to an Italian and was back in Ghana "to take care of business." Part of her "business" included an attempt to rent us a house and sell us a car. No such agreement came into fruition but we did enjoy some great pasta!
Recently, we had a tasty lunch at an Indian restaurant with a young man from South Africa who is working on an interesting mango project, and last Friday, a Canadian couple who are finishing an eight year water safety assignment in Tamale had us to their home for a wonderful dinner. We feasted on green leaf soup, pepper steak, mashed yams, and assorted vegetables and we even had the Ghanaian version of ice-cream - "Fan Milk" - for dessert, accompanied by paw-paw fruit and banana cake. Their home was well constructed in a compound of houses built by an Italian contractor several years ago specifically for Canadians working in Tamale. So, midst all the poorly built places, there are definitely a few exceptions. The country, itself, is one of contrasts. Many Ghanaians take great pride in their dress and appearance. Seen on the street or at their place of work, one could easily picture them in New York City of London. Their homes, however, are often spartan and not equivalent to western standards as we know them.
Life here in the north can be especially difficult. Because most of the government allotments go to the south, the northerners often feel forgotten or neglected. Poverty is widespread and yet, the Ghanaians are generally a happy people. They warmly greet friends and strangers alike and are always ready to laugh both at each other and at themselves.
Our social contacts are also increasing. The Archbishop has a friend who offered to cook a special meal for us the other evening. She is a Ghanaian now married to an Italian and was back in Ghana "to take care of business." Part of her "business" included an attempt to rent us a house and sell us a car. No such agreement came into fruition but we did enjoy some great pasta!
Recently, we had a tasty lunch at an Indian restaurant with a young man from South Africa who is working on an interesting mango project, and last Friday, a Canadian couple who are finishing an eight year water safety assignment in Tamale had us to their home for a wonderful dinner. We feasted on green leaf soup, pepper steak, mashed yams, and assorted vegetables and we even had the Ghanaian version of ice-cream - "Fan Milk" - for dessert, accompanied by paw-paw fruit and banana cake. Their home was well constructed in a compound of houses built by an Italian contractor several years ago specifically for Canadians working in Tamale. So, midst all the poorly built places, there are definitely a few exceptions. The country, itself, is one of contrasts. Many Ghanaians take great pride in their dress and appearance. Seen on the street or at their place of work, one could easily picture them in New York City of London. Their homes, however, are often spartan and not equivalent to western standards as we know them.
Life here in the north can be especially difficult. Because most of the government allotments go to the south, the northerners often feel forgotten or neglected. Poverty is widespread and yet, the Ghanaians are generally a happy people. They warmly greet friends and strangers alike and are always ready to laugh both at each other and at themselves.
Monday, October 15, 2007
Celebrating the Close of Ramadan
This past Saturday morning, Jim and I went to witness the "Feast of the Breaking of the Fast" prayer commemorating the end of Ramadan. It was held in the recently finished parade grounds in town and attended by literally thousands of Muslims. People streamed in from all sides, and with the women sitting separately from the men, the Imam led them all in prayer. For 30 days, they had been fasting - no food, drink, including water, and no sexual relations- from about 4 or 5 AM to 6 PM. Now was the time to celebrate and since the feast fell on the weekend, Monday was declared a holiday as well.
Sr. Marie-Renee, a Sister of Our Lady o f Africa, who taught the short course on Islam which I attended during the summer, invited us to greet some of her Muslim colleagues later in the day. Because Marie is very active in promoting inter-religious dialogue, she is well acquainted with various community leaders. We first visited the Imam of Tamale's central mosque who had led the morning prayer at the parade grounds. We met in very humble surroundings and chatted for a few minutes while seated on a bench outside his home.
The second visit was to the Imam of a smaller mosque and here we were invited inside the home. Taking off our shoes, we entered a rather large room which had a few chairs, sofas, a bed, and on the walls large posters of prominent Muslim clerics and decorative excerpts of the Koran. The Imam sat facing us on his prayer rug and we conversed for quite a while, - laughing, sharing stories, and speaking about the similarities of the Bible and the importance of recognizing and respedrcting each other's faiths. His English was fairly good but occasionally he used a translator to get his meaning across. Although many Muslims are indeed highly educated, the Imams - those who rise to the high position of the "caller to prayer" - are often purposely not exposed to the education, languages, and culture of the western world. The Imam, however, did take great pride in telling us that not only he, but his four wives and his mother haave all made the special pilrimmage to Mecca.
There was a very wise and peaceful demeanor exhibited by these two religious leaders and they certainly provided one with a more realistic and balanced perception of Islam.
Sr. Marie-Renee, a Sister of Our Lady o f Africa, who taught the short course on Islam which I attended during the summer, invited us to greet some of her Muslim colleagues later in the day. Because Marie is very active in promoting inter-religious dialogue, she is well acquainted with various community leaders. We first visited the Imam of Tamale's central mosque who had led the morning prayer at the parade grounds. We met in very humble surroundings and chatted for a few minutes while seated on a bench outside his home.
The second visit was to the Imam of a smaller mosque and here we were invited inside the home. Taking off our shoes, we entered a rather large room which had a few chairs, sofas, a bed, and on the walls large posters of prominent Muslim clerics and decorative excerpts of the Koran. The Imam sat facing us on his prayer rug and we conversed for quite a while, - laughing, sharing stories, and speaking about the similarities of the Bible and the importance of recognizing and respedrcting each other's faiths. His English was fairly good but occasionally he used a translator to get his meaning across. Although many Muslims are indeed highly educated, the Imams - those who rise to the high position of the "caller to prayer" - are often purposely not exposed to the education, languages, and culture of the western world. The Imam, however, did take great pride in telling us that not only he, but his four wives and his mother haave all made the special pilrimmage to Mecca.
There was a very wise and peaceful demeanor exhibited by these two religious leaders and they certainly provided one with a more realistic and balanced perception of Islam.
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
House and Hospital
Further construction has begun on our future rental house so it should be fun to observe how the finishing touches progress. The available tiles were split between a speckled green and a speckled sand so we'll see what design materializes between the two. The "baby blue" basins were already purchased by the owner in Accra so I guess some of my color schemes have already been determined. One error in the builder's judgment concerns the small kitchen sink. Ideally, it should have been a double one since without hot water from the tap, it'd be nice to fill one section with water that has been heated on the stove for rinsing. Oh well, at least they can replace the faucet itself with a higher spigot so we can manage to get a pot underneath. In the next couple of weeks, we'll have to get a stove, some furniture and a few other essentials. Hopefully, the refrigerator that we brought in the container will work.
Jim continues to establish his place at the hospital and each day I am sure his contributions are taking effect. It is a slow process. While some people are very willing to learn, others are reluctant to change age-old habits. The facility, itself, has been sadly neglected for many years and truthfully, my first visit there gave me a strong incentive to try and stay healthy so I wouldn't have to return as a patient. Jim, however, goes faithfully every morning, determined to do what he can to help the Ghanaians and improve conditions. I now understand how important it was for him to accumulate all the medical equipment he could get his hands on in the U.S. before coming over.
The last few days have seemed quite a bit warmer as the rainy season is drawing to a close. I'm told the really hot months are Feb, Mar, and April, - this after the dusty Harmattan wind, which usually comes December through January. In the span of sometimes eight months, there is not one drop of rain.
Jim continues to establish his place at the hospital and each day I am sure his contributions are taking effect. It is a slow process. While some people are very willing to learn, others are reluctant to change age-old habits. The facility, itself, has been sadly neglected for many years and truthfully, my first visit there gave me a strong incentive to try and stay healthy so I wouldn't have to return as a patient. Jim, however, goes faithfully every morning, determined to do what he can to help the Ghanaians and improve conditions. I now understand how important it was for him to accumulate all the medical equipment he could get his hands on in the U.S. before coming over.
The last few days have seemed quite a bit warmer as the rainy season is drawing to a close. I'm told the really hot months are Feb, Mar, and April, - this after the dusty Harmattan wind, which usually comes December through January. In the span of sometimes eight months, there is not one drop of rain.
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