Walking back into COLWOD, the little shop in which I helped out last summer and fall, was a beautiful experience of warm welcome. The girls rushed out to meet me, practically lifting me off the ground with their hugs and screams. Fadila, Sylvia, Mary (with her baby Fatima), Grace and Hubertine are all ready to make curtains for our house as soon as Jim and I get a carpenter to construct the rods & brackets to hold them.
The other day, I went to the Tamale Teaching Hospital and saw first hand the difference Jim has made since arriving in July of 2007. Everyone there was happy to see him return from his month's visit to the States and he, in turn, was really pleased that the weekly medical conferences he initiated continued without a hitch in his absence. The hospital, itself, is still in need of a lot of help but certain improvements and further potential can be seen. The two top administrators, for example, have been replaced with men who seem both energetic and open to new ideas. A beautiful intensive care unit has been renovated although it continues to remain empty and unused while awaiting building code occupancy approval....But to see the Zeiss operating microscopes, the Storz endoscopes, the Jedmed equipment, etc., etc. - things that once outfitted Jim's office in the U.S. - and all the other items generously donated by various companies - is pretty amazing.
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Back On African Soil
After Jim's month-long visit home in the States, we returned to Ghana, - this time taking Delta's direct, non-stop flight from NY to Accra instead of connecting through Europe. Preferred choice of itinerary still up for debate with the pros & cons of longer travel time stopping over in London or Amsterdam as opposed to an 11 hour stretch on a plane.
We spent two days in the capital city so Jim could complete the necessary steps towards obtaining his Ghanaian pilot's license as he's still hoping to do some recreational flying/gliding while working here. Treated ourselves to a nice stay at the Mahogany Lodge before taking the in-country flight up to Tamale in the Northern Region. Enjoyed a delicious meal of "cassava fish" at Captain Hooks near the lodge.
And now, "back home" in Tamale! Jim has done well with the new house what with all the frustrations of plumbing & electrical problems, some of which remain ongoing. The bare essentials are there - beds, a few tables & chairs, bookcase, and a couple of desks. He added a nice touch to our bedroom by hanging some prints of Paris on the walls (much appreciated) & both he and our cook, Godwin, have done a pretty good job of outfitting the kitchen. Actually, I think the kitchen & cooking may be my biggest hurdle. I love to cook but I also like to work in a clean setting with an organized system - not to mention the luxury of having plenty of clean water. When previously living as guests on the Archbishop's compound, I really had it easy. I didn't have to deal with the kitchen on a daily basis & happily ate whatever meals were placed in front of me by Reggie, the Archbishop's niece who is his longtime cook and housekeeper. Here in our own home, it's a different story. First of all, I'm not used to having my own cook, and second, the kitchen is where I spend a good deal of the day at home in the US. Our having a cook here is the norm for both marketing & preparing with local ingredients so I hope we can learn from each other and that I can eventually feel comfortable maintaining a Ghanaian household.
There's plenty for me to do though and so the hunt is on for living room furniture, curtains, mirrors, shelves, etc., etc. Challenges await!
We spent two days in the capital city so Jim could complete the necessary steps towards obtaining his Ghanaian pilot's license as he's still hoping to do some recreational flying/gliding while working here. Treated ourselves to a nice stay at the Mahogany Lodge before taking the in-country flight up to Tamale in the Northern Region. Enjoyed a delicious meal of "cassava fish" at Captain Hooks near the lodge.
And now, "back home" in Tamale! Jim has done well with the new house what with all the frustrations of plumbing & electrical problems, some of which remain ongoing. The bare essentials are there - beds, a few tables & chairs, bookcase, and a couple of desks. He added a nice touch to our bedroom by hanging some prints of Paris on the walls (much appreciated) & both he and our cook, Godwin, have done a pretty good job of outfitting the kitchen. Actually, I think the kitchen & cooking may be my biggest hurdle. I love to cook but I also like to work in a clean setting with an organized system - not to mention the luxury of having plenty of clean water. When previously living as guests on the Archbishop's compound, I really had it easy. I didn't have to deal with the kitchen on a daily basis & happily ate whatever meals were placed in front of me by Reggie, the Archbishop's niece who is his longtime cook and housekeeper. Here in our own home, it's a different story. First of all, I'm not used to having my own cook, and second, the kitchen is where I spend a good deal of the day at home in the US. Our having a cook here is the norm for both marketing & preparing with local ingredients so I hope we can learn from each other and that I can eventually feel comfortable maintaining a Ghanaian household.
There's plenty for me to do though and so the hunt is on for living room furniture, curtains, mirrors, shelves, etc., etc. Challenges await!
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
Some Photos
Now that I've arrived home, our daughter, Beth, is helping me add a few photos to my blog. I hope you enjoy them.
My birthday "boubou" dress - a gift from Jim
In the neighborhood... 
In the village...
Again, in the village...
With some of my students
Drying laundry
Some of my co-workers at COLWOD
The close of Ramadan
Prayer, close of Ramadan
At COLWOD
My English class
Making shea butter
Wednesday, October 24, 2007
Farewells and Future Plans
My nearly four-month stay in Ghana will soon be coming to a close as I fly from Tamale to Accra on Nov. 2. Jim plans to accompany me to Accra where we'll spend the week-end before my flight to the U.S. via Amsterdam which departs the evening of Nov. 5.
As one might imagine, it's with mixed feelings that I leave. While I greatly look forward to being with family and friends, it will be difficult saying "au revoir" to Jim. Future plans are always uncertain but I hope to return to Ghana late in the spring. Meanwhile, our daughter, Beth, will be the first family member to visit the Murphy home in Tamale. She and her Dad will celebrate Christmas together while I join the contingent in the States.
And so, as I say my farewells, I'm deeply appreciative to have been exposed to many new experiences and at the same time realize I have so much more to learn. Africa is a huge continent with its countries very diverse. Ghana, and most importantly the people I've met here, have been my personal and unforgettable introduction to this unique part of our world.
As one might imagine, it's with mixed feelings that I leave. While I greatly look forward to being with family and friends, it will be difficult saying "au revoir" to Jim. Future plans are always uncertain but I hope to return to Ghana late in the spring. Meanwhile, our daughter, Beth, will be the first family member to visit the Murphy home in Tamale. She and her Dad will celebrate Christmas together while I join the contingent in the States.
And so, as I say my farewells, I'm deeply appreciative to have been exposed to many new experiences and at the same time realize I have so much more to learn. Africa is a huge continent with its countries very diverse. Ghana, and most importantly the people I've met here, have been my personal and unforgettable introduction to this unique part of our world.
Monday, October 22, 2007
Nurturing Contacts
Last week, a long overdue clinical conference for doctors took place in the hospital thanks to Jim's "behind the scenes" approach to initiate it. Unbelievably, the doctors had rarely met among themselves. Rapport was not good, legitimate complaints were usually ignored, and some colleagues were not even aware of the existence of others. Jim went to each physician in the hospital and telephoned four or five additional ones who work in Tamale but outside the facility to encourage their getting together. He asked two Ghanaian doctors to preside over the meeting and to Jim's delight, they had a great turn-out of eighteen physicians and a resolution to hold subsequent conferences every two weeks. So, although serious problems continue, this event was truly an accomplishment.
Our social contacts are also increasing. The Archbishop has a friend who offered to cook a special meal for us the other evening. She is a Ghanaian now married to an Italian and was back in Ghana "to take care of business." Part of her "business" included an attempt to rent us a house and sell us a car. No such agreement came into fruition but we did enjoy some great pasta!
Recently, we had a tasty lunch at an Indian restaurant with a young man from South Africa who is working on an interesting mango project, and last Friday, a Canadian couple who are finishing an eight year water safety assignment in Tamale had us to their home for a wonderful dinner. We feasted on green leaf soup, pepper steak, mashed yams, and assorted vegetables and we even had the Ghanaian version of ice-cream - "Fan Milk" - for dessert, accompanied by paw-paw fruit and banana cake. Their home was well constructed in a compound of houses built by an Italian contractor several years ago specifically for Canadians working in Tamale. So, midst all the poorly built places, there are definitely a few exceptions. The country, itself, is one of contrasts. Many Ghanaians take great pride in their dress and appearance. Seen on the street or at their place of work, one could easily picture them in New York City of London. Their homes, however, are often spartan and not equivalent to western standards as we know them.
Life here in the north can be especially difficult. Because most of the government allotments go to the south, the northerners often feel forgotten or neglected. Poverty is widespread and yet, the Ghanaians are generally a happy people. They warmly greet friends and strangers alike and are always ready to laugh both at each other and at themselves.
Our social contacts are also increasing. The Archbishop has a friend who offered to cook a special meal for us the other evening. She is a Ghanaian now married to an Italian and was back in Ghana "to take care of business." Part of her "business" included an attempt to rent us a house and sell us a car. No such agreement came into fruition but we did enjoy some great pasta!
Recently, we had a tasty lunch at an Indian restaurant with a young man from South Africa who is working on an interesting mango project, and last Friday, a Canadian couple who are finishing an eight year water safety assignment in Tamale had us to their home for a wonderful dinner. We feasted on green leaf soup, pepper steak, mashed yams, and assorted vegetables and we even had the Ghanaian version of ice-cream - "Fan Milk" - for dessert, accompanied by paw-paw fruit and banana cake. Their home was well constructed in a compound of houses built by an Italian contractor several years ago specifically for Canadians working in Tamale. So, midst all the poorly built places, there are definitely a few exceptions. The country, itself, is one of contrasts. Many Ghanaians take great pride in their dress and appearance. Seen on the street or at their place of work, one could easily picture them in New York City of London. Their homes, however, are often spartan and not equivalent to western standards as we know them.
Life here in the north can be especially difficult. Because most of the government allotments go to the south, the northerners often feel forgotten or neglected. Poverty is widespread and yet, the Ghanaians are generally a happy people. They warmly greet friends and strangers alike and are always ready to laugh both at each other and at themselves.
Monday, October 15, 2007
Celebrating the Close of Ramadan
This past Saturday morning, Jim and I went to witness the "Feast of the Breaking of the Fast" prayer commemorating the end of Ramadan. It was held in the recently finished parade grounds in town and attended by literally thousands of Muslims. People streamed in from all sides, and with the women sitting separately from the men, the Imam led them all in prayer. For 30 days, they had been fasting - no food, drink, including water, and no sexual relations- from about 4 or 5 AM to 6 PM. Now was the time to celebrate and since the feast fell on the weekend, Monday was declared a holiday as well.
Sr. Marie-Renee, a Sister of Our Lady o f Africa, who taught the short course on Islam which I attended during the summer, invited us to greet some of her Muslim colleagues later in the day. Because Marie is very active in promoting inter-religious dialogue, she is well acquainted with various community leaders. We first visited the Imam of Tamale's central mosque who had led the morning prayer at the parade grounds. We met in very humble surroundings and chatted for a few minutes while seated on a bench outside his home.
The second visit was to the Imam of a smaller mosque and here we were invited inside the home. Taking off our shoes, we entered a rather large room which had a few chairs, sofas, a bed, and on the walls large posters of prominent Muslim clerics and decorative excerpts of the Koran. The Imam sat facing us on his prayer rug and we conversed for quite a while, - laughing, sharing stories, and speaking about the similarities of the Bible and the importance of recognizing and respedrcting each other's faiths. His English was fairly good but occasionally he used a translator to get his meaning across. Although many Muslims are indeed highly educated, the Imams - those who rise to the high position of the "caller to prayer" - are often purposely not exposed to the education, languages, and culture of the western world. The Imam, however, did take great pride in telling us that not only he, but his four wives and his mother haave all made the special pilrimmage to Mecca.
There was a very wise and peaceful demeanor exhibited by these two religious leaders and they certainly provided one with a more realistic and balanced perception of Islam.
Sr. Marie-Renee, a Sister of Our Lady o f Africa, who taught the short course on Islam which I attended during the summer, invited us to greet some of her Muslim colleagues later in the day. Because Marie is very active in promoting inter-religious dialogue, she is well acquainted with various community leaders. We first visited the Imam of Tamale's central mosque who had led the morning prayer at the parade grounds. We met in very humble surroundings and chatted for a few minutes while seated on a bench outside his home.
The second visit was to the Imam of a smaller mosque and here we were invited inside the home. Taking off our shoes, we entered a rather large room which had a few chairs, sofas, a bed, and on the walls large posters of prominent Muslim clerics and decorative excerpts of the Koran. The Imam sat facing us on his prayer rug and we conversed for quite a while, - laughing, sharing stories, and speaking about the similarities of the Bible and the importance of recognizing and respedrcting each other's faiths. His English was fairly good but occasionally he used a translator to get his meaning across. Although many Muslims are indeed highly educated, the Imams - those who rise to the high position of the "caller to prayer" - are often purposely not exposed to the education, languages, and culture of the western world. The Imam, however, did take great pride in telling us that not only he, but his four wives and his mother haave all made the special pilrimmage to Mecca.
There was a very wise and peaceful demeanor exhibited by these two religious leaders and they certainly provided one with a more realistic and balanced perception of Islam.
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
House and Hospital
Further construction has begun on our future rental house so it should be fun to observe how the finishing touches progress. The available tiles were split between a speckled green and a speckled sand so we'll see what design materializes between the two. The "baby blue" basins were already purchased by the owner in Accra so I guess some of my color schemes have already been determined. One error in the builder's judgment concerns the small kitchen sink. Ideally, it should have been a double one since without hot water from the tap, it'd be nice to fill one section with water that has been heated on the stove for rinsing. Oh well, at least they can replace the faucet itself with a higher spigot so we can manage to get a pot underneath. In the next couple of weeks, we'll have to get a stove, some furniture and a few other essentials. Hopefully, the refrigerator that we brought in the container will work.
Jim continues to establish his place at the hospital and each day I am sure his contributions are taking effect. It is a slow process. While some people are very willing to learn, others are reluctant to change age-old habits. The facility, itself, has been sadly neglected for many years and truthfully, my first visit there gave me a strong incentive to try and stay healthy so I wouldn't have to return as a patient. Jim, however, goes faithfully every morning, determined to do what he can to help the Ghanaians and improve conditions. I now understand how important it was for him to accumulate all the medical equipment he could get his hands on in the U.S. before coming over.
The last few days have seemed quite a bit warmer as the rainy season is drawing to a close. I'm told the really hot months are Feb, Mar, and April, - this after the dusty Harmattan wind, which usually comes December through January. In the span of sometimes eight months, there is not one drop of rain.
Jim continues to establish his place at the hospital and each day I am sure his contributions are taking effect. It is a slow process. While some people are very willing to learn, others are reluctant to change age-old habits. The facility, itself, has been sadly neglected for many years and truthfully, my first visit there gave me a strong incentive to try and stay healthy so I wouldn't have to return as a patient. Jim, however, goes faithfully every morning, determined to do what he can to help the Ghanaians and improve conditions. I now understand how important it was for him to accumulate all the medical equipment he could get his hands on in the U.S. before coming over.
The last few days have seemed quite a bit warmer as the rainy season is drawing to a close. I'm told the really hot months are Feb, Mar, and April, - this after the dusty Harmattan wind, which usually comes December through January. In the span of sometimes eight months, there is not one drop of rain.
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