Ongoing Taxi Saga

Was thrilled to climb into a decent looking taxi the other day. It had a crack-free windshield and actual door and window handles. The trade-off, however, was a harrowing ride into town. As the other two passengers seemed oblivious, I was holding on for dear life as the driver insisted on speeding at every chance he got, coming up to each car in front of him within inches, beeping his horn, passing with oncoming traffic in view, and weaving in between motorcycles, cows and whatever else was in his path. Think I may opt for those dilapidated vehicles that chug along at a much slower pace.

Times Are Changing

A new Archbishop has been appointed in Tamale with our good friend, Archbishop Gregory, now retired. Parties to celebrate Gregory's long tenure are still taking place - one was on Tuesday evening (mainly for the members of the religious community and a few strays like us) with a Mass followed by a reception of drinks and an extensive buffet dinner. Another is to be held this Saturday - a day-long gala open to all the people of the entire diocese. Am sure there will be plenty of music and dancing.
COLWOD (Collaboration With Women in Distress) also has a new director as the unique Sr. Jacqueline has been re-assigned to Kenya. The young women working at Colwod are understandably anxious and wary of the change. I treated four of them to lunch on Monday and amid the usual joking and laughs, was discussion of their future.
Other good friends have moved on to different ventures. Damien, who stayed with us over the weekend, is presently working with banana cultivation in the south instead of with the mango project here in the north. Hubertine has left for a while to visit family in Togo. The Cosways are back in Canada although Nancy expects to be with us for a few days in the fall on her way back from a business trip to Nigeria.
Happily, Mmathuba and Rick are still here. Sr. Elizabeth, of the Sisters of Our Lady of Africa, has returned from Germany to help out after the tragic death from typhoid of fellow Sr. Veronique. There is a new group of novitiates at the Christian Brothers. Godwin, cook and keeper of the house, and Mumuni, the night watchman, remain loyal to our Tamale household.

2009 Rainy Season

This year's rainy season and that of 2008 - approximately May to October - have supposedly been the heaviest in Ghana for some 90 years. And presently, the French-speaking country just north of us - Burkina Faso - is dealing with much flooding. It is said the amount of rain that fell in their capital city of Quagadougou in one day the past week was equal to a quarter of the whole country's annual rainfall. As a result, if Burkino is forced to open the main gate of a hydroelectric dam in the Volta River basin near the Ghanaian border, this could have serious repercussions for Ghana especially if the torrential-like rains continue.
Right now, we are not adversely affected here in Tamale except for muddy roads and the extra danger of more mosquitos. The sun shines in between the downpours and life goes on. I keep hearing about the "cuisine fantastique" that can be found in "Quaga" but I guess a visit up there will be put on hold for a while.

Re-stocking The Cupboard

Have been getting some food and miscellaneous kitchen supplies for the house while writing a reminder to myself in big, red, block letters to follow my own intuition in the future re: items to bring from the US or even while stopping over in Accra. Jim is always quick to say "you can find anything in Tamale, - no need to pack extra weight in our suitcases." A big jar of Skippy or Jif peanut butter would've been nice. A hand-held electric mixer (which could easily be used with a local plug/voltage adaptor). A few favorite spices, etc., etc. No doubt that some shape or form of the above can be found here but quality and cost are a different matter.
On the other hand, open air markets and roadside stands for fruit and vegetables are plentiful with the produce fresh and delicious. Preparation of meals is what takes a fair amount of time - necessity of boiling the water, for example.
In any event, we certainly don't go hungry. Unless, of course, we join our Muslim friends in this current period of fasting during the 30 days of Ramadan. No food or drink all day between sunrise and sunset.

Daily Life

With the many frustrations and difficulties he faces every day in the hospital and even in maintaining the house, Jim thrives on his work. Without question, he is making a difference in the lives of people around him. Me, - not so much. I feel I should be doing more and then rationalize that I'm not here long enough during one stay to commit to a full-time position. Lame excuse because I can always get involved in one thing or another. Some days I do get a little sense of accomplishment in just taking care of mundane chores like food shopping, going to the bank for a new ATM card, or picking up a package at the post office.
The bank, for example, was total bedlam on Monday with at least 100 people milling inside and another 50 on line outside by the ATM "waiting for it to be repaired." Determined to succeed, I was able to find the bank manager, and after interacting with him and a series of his assistants, I departed with both cash in hand and a current ATM card (which should eventually be able to work).
The post office was my next stop. We received a notice in our box to pick up a package which turned out to be Beth's Father's Day gift. It had arrived shortly before Jim left for his stateside visit so he never got a chance to retrieve it before his departure. While one clerk in the main building watched over my two large bundles of shopping, I was directed to another location across the back courtyard, filled out a few forms for two other clerks chatting among themselves and other customers, watched them open and inspect the contents of the box, paid 3 Ghana cedi (about $2.25) for the paperwork, and finally left with a beautiful laptop carrying case filled with an assortment of US magazines and lots of good wishes.

New Adventures Ahead

Hope to add yet another positive experience to life in Tamale. My first sojourn in Ghana was total novelty, the second was getting accustomed to our own home, and this third.....remains to be seen.
One of our sons once introduced us to a game of "Highs and Lows" and I thought of that in my first few days back. "Lows" included a dust-covered house, a multitude of cobwebs, and electrical problems affecting refrigerator, computer, and lights. The "Highs," however, won out with the house still standing, beautiful plants surviving, being met at the airport by one of Jim's colleagues, and having a home-cooked breakfast prepared by Kris, the son of a good college friend who recently accepted a job in Tamale with Catholic Relief Services and who just happens to live a short walk from our place. Last but not least were the warm greetings of both strangers and friends.
The house is now cleaned, a knowledgeable electrician has put us back on track, and Jim was enthusiastically welcomed time and again by people on the street and his co-workers in the hospital.

2009 Return to Ghana

Back to West Africa 28 August 2009, returning with Jim after his visit home to the States. Stayed once again at the convenient and comfortable Transit Lodge in the Cantonments section of Accra, only about a ten minute drive from the airport, and enjoyed a favorite dinner of cassava fish with lobster sauce just around the corner at Captain Hook's.
The next morning we boarded our Antrak domestic flight to Tamale and were accompanied by the reigning beauty queen adorned with a golden crown and a "Ghana's Most Beautiful" sash draped over her colorful blue and pink print dress. I feel fairly certain in assuming that the photographers waiting upon our arrival were not assembled to welcome Jim back to Tamale Teaching Hospital.